This summer's ultimate snack
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After years of frustration, the Italians have finally got their revenge for the English adding pineapples to pizzas. Fair play.
If any sadness still lingers from Sunday’s defeat then this week’s recipe will soon soothe it: tomato, ricotta, and mozzarella panzerotti.
A specialty of Puglia, panzerotti are found all across south and central Italy at street food vendors, pizzerias, delis, and bakeries. They’re essentially deep-fried pizzas - best enjoyed with a beer or Aperol spritz - and they’re essentially delicious.
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I’ve no idea how I came across Aesop Rock - this album just seemed to appear on my iPod years ago - but the track ‘Daylight’ really stood out and I instantly liked it. He’s a great MC and lyricist, using this album to focus on work and putting effort into what you do.
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Pizza is one of the greatest things in the world, probably just behind pasta. You’re either with me on this, against me, unaware of me, or some kind of fish.
It’s hard to improve pizza but panzerotti has a good stab at it. Basically Italy’s answer to the Cornish pasty (if the Cornish ever asked them the question), panzerotti are often confused with calzone due to their similar shape.
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Panzerotti are fried while calzone are baked in an oven. If calzone are pizza’s first cousin, panzerotti are second cousins twice removed (i.e. the ones you prefer).
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One of panzerotti’s defining features is the molten stringy mozzarella contained within. You can stuff panzerotti with anything (so long as mozzarella is involved), but the most common filling is tomato and mozzarella. We’re going to add some ricotta and parmesan to that because, well, ricotta. Nuff said.
Just make sure to get a firm mozzarella as anything too soft will leak a lot of water when cooked.
The word ‘panzerotti’ comes from the word ‘panza’ - a dialect word from Puglia for ‘pancia’ or ‘belly’ - because they swell up like a belly when being fried. Don’t be alarmed, they’re actually surprisingly light.
We’ll make eight decent-sized panzerotti but they’re particularly addictive so I advise inviting a few people over to share them with.
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The below serves 8. It takes 30 mins to prep (plus 4-6 hrs resting time), then 10 mins to cook.
Dough:
285ml lukewarm water
250g ‘00’ flour
250g strong white/bread flour
4g active dry yeast
1½ tsp salt
1 tsp sugar
Filling:
250g mozzarella (firm)
100g tomato puree (good quality)
250g ricotta
75g parmesan (finely grated)
10-15 basil leaves (roughly torn into small pieces)
Sea salt & black pepper
2l vegetable/sunflower/groundnut oil for frying
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1. We’ll start making the dough… Add both flours to a large mixing bowl along with the dry yeast. Stir well using a wooden spoon. Add about half the water and mix again with the wooden spoon. Finally, add the remaining water, salt, and sugar. Mix with the wooden spoon until a very rough paste forms.
2. Use the dough to collect any remaining flour stuck on the bowl, then transfer to a lightly floured work surface and knead with your hands for a few mins. The dough should start to become smoother and more compact. Now form the dough into a ball shape and cover with some cling film. Leave to rest for 10 mins.
3. Once rested, it’s time to divide the dough. Cut the dough in half and gently form the dough into two loaves. Divide each of these into four equal portions. Use your hands to form each portion into a neat ball shape by slightly cupping your hands and using the sides of them to ‘tighten’ the dough at the base by pushing the dough in under itself.
4. Now transfer the balls to a lightly floured tray or tupperware and leave to rest for about 4-6 hours.
NOTE: if using tupperware just close the lid as normal. If using a tray, wrap gently in cling film. Your balls should double in size.
5. At some point before the dough is ready, prepare the filling…
Add the tomato puree, parmesan, ricotta, and a pinch of salt and pepper to a bowl and mix together. Chop the mozzarella into small cubes (pat dry with some kitchen paper if it’s wet), add to your bowl along with the basil leaves, and fold everything into your mixture. Leave at room temp for half an hour before making the panzerotti.
6. When the dough has risen, and you’re ready to start forming the panzerotti, add your frying oil to a deep, heavy-based frying pan. Heat to 190°c (but keep an eye on it while you're making the panzerotti).
7. To assemble the panzerotti, use a spatula to get underneath one of the balls of dough and transfer to a lightly floured work surface. Use your fingers to gently push the dough, working from the centre, into a disc shape. Aim for a disc about 15cm in diameter.
NOTE: panzerotti need to be thin, but not pizza-thin otherwise holes may appear when we fry them.
8. Once you’ve formed your disc, spoon an eighth of the cheese and tomato mixture into the centre. Now gently lift the dough from one side and fold it over the mixture to the other side to form a half moon/Cornish pasty shape.
Dip your thumb in some flour and use it to squash the two edges together so the two layers merge into one and create a seal. Fold a small amount of the rim back on itself and push together to create an extra strong seal.
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9. Gently pick the panzerotti up and carefully place them into the hot oil.
Fry no more than two at a time for about 2 mins on each side. Use an appropriate utensil to occasionally hold them in position and turn over. They’re ready when golden brown all over.
10. Remove carefully from the hot oil, drain on some kitchen paper or wire rack, and let them stand for a moment. Tuck in.
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Want to get creative with your filling? Go for it. You could try adding mortadella, salami, prosciutto, anchovies, artichokes, olives, or roasted vegetables.
Same time next week,
Fraser
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Painting a pretty picture?
Tag your dishes with #eatmywordslondon, or hit reply to this email with a photo.
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