Green Bean Connection
Happy Holidays to My Garden Family!
NOVEMBER: Finally, Cool Weather!?!
Love KALE! Beauty, Super Nutrition, Easy to Grow!
Cilantro Repels Aphids, Attracts Bees & Beneficial Insects!!!
Wonderful Gardener-Style Holiday Gifts!
Massachusetts Horticultural Society Garden
Events! Master Gardener Training, Seed Swap!
Dear Pilgrim Terrace Gardeners, Garden Friends,
October Garden Images! Dragon Fruit in progress ~
If you or a friend would enjoy gardening at a community garden, November is a great time to start this year! A 10 X 20 spot is only $65/year! YES! Go directly to the Westside Community Center, weekdays 10 to 4, to sign up. That's at 423 W Victoria St, Santa Barbara. We will be delighted to meet you, share friendship, the great outdoors, and garden craft!
Across-the-Plot Gardening Tips
November: Finally, Cool Weather!?
Purple cauliflower has flavonoid compounds called anthocyanin, antioxidants. Steaming retains the most nutrition. Mark Twain once said, “Cauliflower is nothing but a cabbage with a college education.”
Got some favorite old Italian heirloom Violetta Italia caulies at Terra Sol Nursery and a Cheddar, abundant with carotenoids, at ACE! Terra Sol had Cosmic Purple carrots too!
I'm trying Arcadia Broccoli because it is somewhat heat tolerant with excellent side shoot production.
Island Seed & Feed has the wonderful Harmony Four green manure seed mix and the inoculant that goes with it, plus a goodly batch of winter transplants including celery and some interesting peas!
Sad to report, no bare root strawberries anywhere. La Sumida usually has them when they reopen in January after the holidays. Sure hope so this year too!
Finally the SoCal HEAT is over!? Many of us at Pilgrim Terrace Community Garden didn't plant until the very end of October, and even then we had record high temps. Very delayed start this year. There will be fewer rounds of planting. Instead of leaving space available for a second round, this year I planted all the space right away. I'll fill in as space becomes available ~ when the cabbage and cauliflower heads are harvested. I'm planting more kale and chard than I used to so I'll have a quick supply of greens while waiting for the others. This late, plant transplants for sure. Seeds are fine, and seeds of the same plants, if planted at the same time as the transplants, give an automatic equivalent of a second round of planting!
Winter light is less, so your placement strategies are more critical. Remember, tall to the North and shaded areas, graduating down in size to the shorties South and sunny. For example, if your garden gets only morning sun, plant tall to the west, shorties on the Tall means at their mature height.
- Pole peas on a trellis might be your backdrop, against a wall, along a fence. Plant carrots on the sunny side of peas to enhance the growth of your peas! I plant beets behind the peas because the beets are fast broadleaved growers that would shade out young peas or slow growing carrots. Peas like a lot of water, so though carrots from seed need to be kept moist, after that, too much water makes carrots split. So plant your carrots far enough from the peas so your carrots don't get as much water as the peas do.
- Brocs get tallest, some up to 5 feet+ unless you are planting dwarf/patio varieties.
- Kales can get that tall and taller if you let them grow pom pom style. Even dwarf kales will do that! Given time, dwarfts revert to their natural size.
- Cauliflower, collard greens, Brussels sprouts, Rapini are about 3' tall
- Plant your Tall plants in zig zag 'rows' so you can plant them closer together. In the inside of a zig zag, on the sunny side in front of the 'back' plant, put in your medium and shorties. Some gardeners call them fillers; I call some of them 'littles.'
- Chards are next, different varieties at varying heights, Fordhook Giants the tallest.
- Bush peas - carrots on the sunny side
- Leeks (away from the peas)
- Cilantro repels aphids on Brassicas - broccoli, kale, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts! Said to make them grow REALLY well, bigger, fuller, greener! Plant generous mini patches here and there. Harvest some, let others flower for bees and beneficial insects. Then share some seeds with the birds, collect some seeds for next plantings.
- Celery by the water spigot. If you have room, you can let celery flower and seed too!
- Bareroot Strawberries, transplant strawberry runner daughters first/second week of November if possible. They need ACIDIC compost mixed into their soil! Put them in spots for easy picking, lovely along borders. Keep them moist. When they start to fruit in spring, cover with aviary wire to keep out birds.
- Heading winter lettuces like plenty of water to stay sweet, grow quickly, stay in high production. Put them in a low spot or near the spigot, on the sunny side of taller celery. Also, lettuces repel cabbage moths. Put a few of them between the cabbages. Lettuces you want under Brassicas, plant from transplants because dying parts of Brassicas put out a poison that prevents some seeds, like tiny lettuce seeds, from growing. Compost fallen Brassica leaves right away. In fact, remove yellowing leaves ASAP! Yellow attracts whiteflies.
- Bunch onions away from peas
- Arugula, Bok Choy, Mizuna, mustards, spinach, the longer winter radishes
- Kohlrabi, rutabagas and turnips
- Have fun with beets & carrots! They come in different shapes and lots of different colors. Try Cylindra beets! Plant carrots, slow growers, so they won't be shaded out by faster flat leaved plants like beets. Put carrots far enough away, on the sunny side so their tiny leaves will get plenty of sun. Colorful carrots brighten your winter stews! Baby Little Fingers make small carrots quicker than most, only 57 days to maturity!
Hmm...usually I would encourage you to grow garlic but with these general overall warmer times, some garlic lovers are reporting they aren't growing it here anymore. Garlic likes chill, so even in our regular winters we don't get the big cloves like up in Gilroy, the Garlic Capital, Ca. If you don't mind smaller bulbs, plant away. Plant rounds of your fattest garlic cloves now through Dec 21, Winter Solstice, for June/July harvests! See a LOT about GARLIC!
Space your plants well
. Think of the footprint of your mature plant
. Crowded plants can shade each other out. They don't get their full productive size or produce as productively, both size or quantity. Smaller plants too close together can get rootbound, suffer from lack of nutrition. The remedy is simple! Thin when young and eat these luscious little plants! Rather than planting so closely, keep some of those seeds back for another later planting. If they come that way from the nursery, gently separate the little plants, plant separately. Give away your extras! Plant to allow air flow so your plants will harden up a bit, and don't overwater, inviting sucking pests like aphids and white flies that feed easily on soft tissue. Especially true for kales and chard that gets leaf miners. Ideally with chard the leaves won't touch another chard.
Mix up your plantings to stop diseases and pests from spreading down a row or throughout a patch. Monoculture can be costly in time spent and crop losses. Plant different varieties of the same plant with different maturity dates. Pests and diseases are only attracted at certain stages of your plants' growth.
See Super Fall Veggies Varieties, Smart Companion Plantings!
Divide your artichokes! Give new babies plenty of room to grow big and make pups of their own or give them to friends! Remember, they have a huge 6' footprint when they thrive and are at full maturity. Plant bareroot artichoke now or in Feb, or in March from pony packs. They have a 10 year life expectancy!
Strawberry Notes! Chandlers are June bearers. Sequoias are Everbearers. Seascapes are one of California's own, released by the University of California breeding program in 1992. They are Day-Neutral, producing 3 months after planted no matter when you plant them! They produce spring, summer and fall, are heat tolerant and remarkably disease resistant! Seascapes, Albions and Sequoias have large berries, Albions very firm. Strawberry and onion varieties are region specific, strawberries more so than onions. So plant the varieties our local nurseries carry, farmers grow, or experiment! 1st half of Nov: Plant seeds of globe onions for slicing. Grano, Granex, Crystal Wax.
With the majority of fall crops, the main harvest is leaves! Cut and come again means a long harvest, and a very hungry plant! So, plant in super soil to get a good start! Add composts, manures, worm castings. In the planting hole, mix in a handful of nonfat powdered milk in for immediate uptake as a natural germicide and to boost their immune system. For bloomers, brocs and caulis, throw in a handful of bone meal for later uptake at bloom time. If you have other treats you like to favor your plants with, give them some of that too! Go lightly on incorporating coffee grounds either in your compost or soil. Studies found coffee grounds work well at only 0.5 percent of the compost mix. That’s only 1/2 a percent! See more details about soil building! The exception is carrots! Too much good soil makes them hairy, fork, and too much water makes them split.
Also at transplant time, sprinkle mycorrhizal fungi directly on transplant roots! Pat it on gently so it stays there. Direct contact is needed. Brassicas don't mingle with the fungi and peas may have low need for it, so no need to use it on them.
Immediately after transplanting, give your babies a boost!
Drench young plants with Aspirin Solution,
+ a 1/4 cup nonfat powdered milk, heaping tablespoon of baking soda, teaspoon liquid dish soap per gallon/watering can, to get them off to a great start! Do this the same or next day! Reapply every 10 days or so, and after significant rains.
Winter plants need additional feeding, and steady adequate moisture to stay healthy and able in such demanding constant production. Give them yummy compost to keep their soil fluffy with oxygen, the water holding capacity up to par. Be careful not to damage main roots. Get a spade fork if you don't have one. Make holes in your soil instead, then, if you don't have skunks or other digging predators, pour them a fish/kelp emulsion cocktail! Or compost, manure, or worm cast tea down the holes. Your plants will thrive, soil organisms will party down!
RESTORE OR REST an area. Decide where you will plant your tomatoes, heavy feeders, next summer and plant your Green Manure there! Plant some hefty favas or a vetch mix for green manures to boost soil Nitrogen. The vetch mix can include Austrian peas and bell beans that feed the soil, and oats that have deep roots to break up the soil. When they start flowering, chop them down into small pieces and turn them under. Wait 2 or more weeks, plant! Favas only are good and big, you get a lot of green manure per square foot. If you change your mind, you can eat them!
Or cover an area you won't be planting with a good 6" to a foot deep of mulch/straw and simply let the herds of soil organisms do their work over winter. This is called Lasagna gardening, sheet composting or composting in place - no turning or having to move it when it's finished. If you are vermicomposting, have worms, add a few handfuls to speed up and enrich the process. Keep it slightly moist. Next spring you will have rich nutritious soil for no work at all!
Mulch? The purpose for mulch in summer is to keep your soil cool and moist. If you live where it snows, deep mulch may keep your soil from freezing so soon. But when SoCal temps start to cool, days are shorter, it's time to remove mulch and let what Sun there is heat up the soil as it can. When it is rainy, mulch slopes with mulch that won't blow or float away. If needed, cover it - garden staple down some scrap pieces of hardware cloth, cut-to-fit wire fencing or that green plastic poultry fencing. Or do a little quick sandbag terracing. Low to the ground leaf crops like lettuce, arugula, spinach, bok choy, chard, need protection from mud splash. Lay down some straw before predicted storms. If you live in a windy area, lay something over the straw, like maybe rebar pieces, to hold the straw in place.
This SoCal winter El Niño rain is predicted
. Plant where there is good drainage. Make above ground beds. If you built berms that hold in too much water, open a low spot to let water out. At home, make water collection areas, channel the water to your fruit trees. Securely stake
tall or top heavy plants before
winds. Tie your peas
to their trellis or plant them inside well-staked remesh round cages. Check on everything the morning after. Some areas may need more shelter and you could create a straw bale border, or even better, low growing bushes, like maybe blueberries!
Lay down seedless straw, a board, or stepping stone pathways
so your footwear doesn't get muddy. Treat yourself to some fab muck boots! (Sloggers
BEE FOOD! Plant wildflowers now from seed for early spring flowers! Germination in cooler weather takes longer, so don’t let the bed dry out. If you are a seed ball person, fling them far and wide, though not on steep slopes where they simply wash away. What is a seed ball?
Enjoy the crisp evenings, a little bit of clearing wind, enjoy these spectacular sunrises & sunsets! Plant for holiday sharing!
Love KALE! Beauty, Super Nutrition, Easy to Grow!
Rainbow Lacinato Kale is almost too pretty to eat! West Coast Seeds says, 'A fabulous cross of beloved Lacinato with the super cold hardy Redbor produces these multicoloured plants with mostly the strap-like leaves of the Lacinato and the colouring of the Redbor. It is slower to bolt and more productive than Lacinato. Enjoy cooking this colourful bouquet all winter long.' 65 days.
In SoCal, rather than cold tolerant varieties, select heat tolerant varieties that will grow well over summer too!
Kales have amazingly different colors and shapes!
- Curly Leaf Kale is the most plant you will get for the footprint of all the plants in your garden! Its leaves are amazingly convoluted, and it keeps growing as you pick, tall and taller, up to 7'! In healthy soil it may make side plants along its naked stem. It's disadvantage is if it gets aphids, then whiteflies attracted to yellowing leaves, they are hard to hose out of the leaves.
- Siberian Kale is a curly edged flat leaf variety. If you like your curls, but not your aphids, you might prefer this beauty. It's leaves are light blue-green with white stems. It is the most tender variety, making it a great choice for raw salads.
- Red Russian is a flat leaved low variety, with a red/purple midrib, beautiful among your ornamental yard plants!
- Red Bor, a completely purple beauty, midribs and leaves, is perfect for edible landscaping. 3 to 5' tall. It is mild and crisp!
- Lacinato, aka Dinosaur Kale, is a bumply long narrow leaved variety that gets tall. Rainbow lacinato kale, image above, is more productive and quite prettier!
- Ornamental kale, aka Salad Savoy, is such a pretty winter garden accent! Ruffly, maybe frilly, purple, white, green heads.
Kale, Brassica oleracea, varieties have differing tastes. Some are more peppery to a bit bitter, like Curly Leaf; Red Russian is milder. Some are snacks in the field, while others need some cooking or even disguising in a stew with other veggies if you aren't a kale lover, but want the nutrition. Salad Savoy is mild and tender.
Soil Fertilize well at planting time because your plant will be working hard, leaf after leaf, forever and ever! Kale grows best when your soil is mixed with organic matter and perhaps a tad of lime in the soil. Overplant, closely, to start, for lots of little plants for salads, then keep thinning to 24 to 36 inch centers for your final spacing. Even my dwarf kales get up to 36" wide!
In SoCal weather your kale will grow up to 4 years even though it is a biennial. Feed them time to time because they are heavy producers, a continuous leaf crop. Dig in a compost, worm castings, manure chow. Be careful not to break main roots. Scratch in some of those delicious box powder ferts, or if you live in Santa Barbara get that super landscape mix at Island Seed & Feed. Water it in well. Or get out your spade fork, poke in some holes and pour a compost, castings, manure tea down the holes! Your soil, your kale, and the faeries will dance in the moonlight!
The nutritional value is superb, both in disease prevention and treatment!
- The trick is to balance the nutrition versus the calories. For example, kale has less calories, but sweet potatoes have more Vitamin A. But that kale does have 98% of our daily need!
- Kale has less sodium and a surprisingly high Vitamin C count, in fact, raw kale has 200% the Daily Value we need! Even cooked, it has 71%!
- One of the super features of kale is it has a high amount of bioaccessible Calcium, especially needed by older women! We can absorb 50 to 60% of kale's calcium. And, it is a top source of Vitamin K, also essential to bone health.
- Steamed kale's fiber-related components bind with bile acids in your digestive tract to lower your cholesterol levels. Raw kale does too, just not as much.
- Extraordinarily, kale's glucosinolates can help regulate detox at a genetic level!
- Over 45 different flavonoids in kale, kaempferol and quercetin heading the list, combine both antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits that reduce your risk of cancer.
Proper Storage Do not wash kale before storing. Water encourages spoilage. Remove as much air as you can from the plastic storage bag. Pop it in the fridge, it will keep for 5 days. The longer it is stored, the more bitter its flavor becomes.
Eat more, cook less! Eating a cup to 2 cups 2 to 3 times a week is good, 4 to 5 times is better! Steaming is best. If you have young thin stemmed kale leaves, cut the leaves into 1/2" slices. If your kale is older, thick stemmed and you don't want the stems, run a sharp knife along the stem to shave the leaves from the stem, cut the leaves into those 1/2" slices. Let them sit for at least 5 minutes to enhance their health-promoting qualities, then steam for 5 minutes.
Tasty Culinary Adventures: With most kales, young leaves can be added to a salad. Mature leaves are better in soups, quiches, stir fry, steamed over rice sprinkled with soy, or sautéed and tossed with your favorite dressing! Kale chips are easy to make; dry and sprinkle with your favorite flavors! Have you had it chopped with scrambled eggs for breakfast?! Make a cream of kale soup, kale potato soup. Add to accent your fish chowder. Add to winter stews, or with cream of Butternut squash! Chopped and steamed with diced potatoes, diagonally sliced carrots, and onions, all tossed with olive oil. Are you hungry yet? Get rad and try a smoothie! With yogurt and berries, mmm, delish! Finely chopped in hummus, or super tender baby leaves, thinnings, chopped in salad, or sprinkled with enthusiasm in enchiladas!
Cool kale salads! Delish with dried cranberries, toasted or raw cashew pieces, vegan mayonnaise and a little lemon juice. With fruits like avocados, apples, pears. Napa or red cabbage, carrots, pumpkin seeds and walnuts. Dress to taste with vinaigrette, sesame-ginger or tahini dressing. How about chopped kale, pine nuts, and feta cheese with whole grain pasta drizzled with olive oil?!
Bon appétit! To your superb health and longevity!
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Cilantro Repels Aphids, Attracts Bees & Beneficial Insects!!!
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Cilantro is persnickety but lovely and valuable! Maybe it is even temperamental. You see, it needs everything just so. Cool weather is its favorite time to grow in SoCal!
Cilantro even tolerates a light frost, but has a short life. It simply grows right up and quits. No, you didn’t do anything wrong, and it’s not that you just don’t have a way with it. With the best conditions Cilantro will last about 8-10 weeks before flowering. It’s doing what it does. It has a unique taste, so if you love it, save seeds and keep right on planting, again and again and again for a steady supply! That’s called succession planting!
I let a plant fall down after it died last summer, forgot about it. Now I have a quite dense sizeable cilantro patch! Do what nature did! Plant densely, just broadcast the seed, better without fancy rows, contrived spacing. Planting tightly shades the ground, keeps your soil moist and cooler. Mulch well around the perimeter of the patch! It is not the heat of the air that causes cilantro to bolt, but rather the heat of the soil. If you are attempting a spring or summer planting, warmer days, read bolting coming, especially do this.
If you are in a hurry and want more surety of germination, soak the seeds 24 hours before planting them a half inch deep in a 2″ deep trench with low sloping sides. The low slope keeps the soil from filling in the trench, burying the seeds too deeply when you water. Firm the soil well so there is good contact and they will stay moist after watered. If your weather is unseasonably hot and dry, plant just a tad deeper so the seeds stay moist. Happy cilantro is not picky about soil pH, but it likes well composted soil, well drained though they like to stay moist.
Baby cilantros don’t take to transplanting because their little taproot goes deep quickly. These babies are vibrantly fresh, have powerful flavor. It happens, for my taste, just one in a salad or a stew is ample. I cut it up, toss it in, roots and all. The roots look like little tiny white carrots. In fact, carrot, celery, cilantro, dill, parsley and parsnips are all in the Carrot Family, Apiaceae or Umbelliferae.
Usually you start harvesting the outer leaves when they are about 6″ tall. Harvest frequently, take the central stems immediately! This may slow down your plant’s demise, but only for awhile. Once it starts to flower, the leaves lose their flavor, but you do have edible flowers! Sprinkle fresh to taste on salads, bean dishes, and cold vegetable dishes.
Because your plantings are going to be closely spaced, you can see liquid fertilizers, fish/kelp types, are going to be the ones to use so they will trickle down into the soil. A little goes a long way. This is a Mediterranean native used to harsh infertile conditions. Over fertilize and you lose the flavor. However, they do like to be kept moist, not swimming, but consistently moist. But they don’t like humidity!!! Like I said, they are persnickety.
I love cilantro in all its stages. As a mature plant, before it bolts (makes a central stalk) flowers and seeds. It smells so lovely when you walk by. It bolts when weather warms, even if only a few days. You can see, why in summer, it’s best to plant so it gets morning sun, afternoon shade. Also it wants to be sheltered from wind. Ok, ok. You definitely want to get slow bolting, bolt resistant varieties. Four varieties of cilantro currently dominate Central California Coast commercial production: Santos, Long Standing, Slo Bolt, and Leisure. All four are used for spring, summer, and fall production, while Santos is the most common variety grown during the winter months.
The tiny white blooms are beautiful, perfect for bees and beneficial insects,especially those little parasitic wasps and predatory flies! Plant some just for them! The feathery leaves don’t make too much shade, so plant cilantro throughout your veggies, under your fruit trees, any place you can fit them in.
Cilantro makes tons of little brown round seeds, no more than an eighth of an inch across, very easy to harvest for next year’s plantings. I scatter them to fill empty places or along the border of my garden. Along the border is nice ‘cz that way all I have to do is stoop a bit as I walk by, to enjoy their scent and those bright little ferny leaves. But make it count more by planting generous patches among your Brassicas like broccoli, cauliflowers and kales because it repels APHIDS!
Harvesting seed is an easy affair! As Birgit Bradtke at Tropical Permaculture says:
…cut the stalk, stick the whole thing upside down in a big paper bag and leave it in a dry spot for a couple of weeks. (Most people recommend to hang it up. In my place it just lies around somewhere…) After a couple of weeks you take the bag and shake it and bash it and all the coriander seeds should fall off and you can pull out the bare stalk. Keep your coriander seeds in a cool dry place. (Most people recommend an airtight container. In my place they just stay in that bag…) And now you should have enough coriander seed to cook with and still have plenty left to throw around your garden next year!
So here it is, quite a list, but you can do it!
- Cool season is best
- Select shade when in warming conditions
- Plant closely to keep soil cool
- Keep moist but avoid humid locations
- Plenty of airflow but sheltered from wind!
- Harvest frequently – sure!
Cilantro is the Spanish word for Coriander. We know the seeds only as Coriander. They are used in pickling and sausages. Cilantro comes from the Middle East, and is used in many ways in other parts of the world. It is a proven antibacterial, is used in the treatment of type 2 diabetes. The uniquely flavored leaves are high in Vitamin C, and it concentrates Calcium – good for older women! Cilantro is a crucial part of salsa, gazpacho, chimichurri sauce, veggie burgers and more. We like it in cocktails, pesto and Indian snacks, too. It is an ingredient in Belgian wheat beers!
Ahem. Keep in mind that many people are not Cilantro lovers like you and I, so go easy on it at that dinner party – leave it out of the salad. One in 6 have taste buds that find it bitter. It’s a genetic trait! Ha! More for us!
Wonderful Gardener-Style Holiday Gifts!
Gifts From Your Garden, Heart to Heart!
Fresh holiday table veggies ie Sweet Potatoes!
Seeds! Spring planting is next!
Plants, with a bow on the container
Canned or dehydrated favorites, dated and labeled
Super tasty organic preserves
Herbal seasonings, teas, dusting powders, salves
Herbal pillows, sachets
Scented candles, soaps
Oils & vinegars
Spicy Orange Pomanders
Fresh bouquet garni
To Your Favorite Gardener with Love!
A Gift Certificate offering your help!
A Gift Certificate to a garden supply house
Catalogs for Organic Seeds - it's ordering time!!!
Garden supplies - soil amendments
Garden tools - maybe some specialty clippers? A garden tool apron?
Garden clothes, from muck boots to summer hat!
Do business gloves, kneepads....
That adorable scarecrow!
A fantastic Garden Basket
The perfect wheelbarrow
A trip to visit a fabulous garden
A garden club membership
Garden books - cookbooks, historic gardens
Oh, you will be SO loved and appreciated!
Other Community Gardens!
Massachusetts Horticultural Society Garden
Start with a seed. End with a meal.
The Massachusetts Horticultural Society's Garden to Table Program offers the public an opportunity to come together in a beautiful and welcoming setting to learn about growing, cooking, and preserving healthy food.
Support a Food Pantry We are pleased to support food pantries in providing healthy and nutritious vegetables to local families. Last year, our Dover garden produced nearly 4,000 pounds of organic produce to help families in need through the Natick & Wellesley Food Pantries.
We also recently embarked on an exciting partnership with the Tufts University Jean Mayer USDA Human Nutrition Research Center on Aging. Together, we created an organic garden in their sun-filled lobby, and are donating the vegetables grown there to the St. Francis House in Boston.
Grow Your Own Food Everyone from Michelle Obama to the American Academy of Pediatrics agrees that fruits and vegetables play a crucial role in improving our health. Our Garden to Table program provides hands-on educational programs to support people who are interested in growing their own food.
Upcoming Garden Events!
Walk or bike to events as possible! Heal the land, heal yourself.
The University of California Cooperative Extension
Master Gardeners of Santa Barbara County
2016 TRAINING CLASS ORIENTATION
Saturday, October 24, 2015 at 10:00-11:30 AM
Goleta Valley Community Center, Room 7
5679 Hollister Avenue, Goleta, CA
Call (805) 893-3485 if you have questions ~
Application deadline: November 30, 2015
Interview dates: December 9 and December 16, 2015
2016 Santa Barbara Seed Swap!
Santa Barbara's Swap will be at the Faulkner Gallery downtown. That's Sun Jan 31 from 11-3 pm, not to be missed! Save extra seeds now to share then! A Hualapai tribal group is coming from Peach Arizona (Grand Canyon)!!! I'm hoping one of them will speak and share some of their planting traditions with us!
Hopefully, Roxanne Swentzell
, extraordinarily gifted Native American sculptor and contemporary pueblo artist from the Santa Clara Pueblo in New Mexico, will be our keynote speaker! She is also co-founder of Flowering Tree Permaculture, involved with permaculture & natural building since the late 1980's, when she returned as a single mom with two small children to her home on pueblo lands, and began building a straw bale house & permaculture food forest on a small compacted piece of land. In just a few years it became a verdant oasis in the middle of high dry desert of New Mexico!
Her current project, Food from Where We Live
, is about the benefits of foods that humans co-evolve with over long periods of time, say 600 years or more, or twenty generations, noting that plants survive because they adapt to a particular place, and ideally, people along side them.
Please join us, or if you are too far away, if you don't have a Seed Swap in your area, do see about starting one! As Roxanne says 'We’re planting seeds within ourselves and outside.'
Leave a wild place, untouched, in your garden! It’s the place the faeries and elves, the little people can hang out. When you are down on your hands and knees, they will whisper what to do. All of a sudden an idea pops in your mind….
In the garden of thy heart, plant naught but the rose of love. – Baha’U’Uah
"Earth turns to Gold in the hands of the Wise" Rumi
Kebun Malay-Kadazan girls interplant a fine garden! Peas growing vertically behind 3 cauliflower plants. Growing in front of cauliflowers are leeks, carrots, corianders (cilantro), lettuces and 2 poppy plants.