May is for More!
Green Bean Connection
Happy May Day and Mother's Day!
The Magic of Melons ~ Cantaloupe, Honeydew
About Pulse Crops!
Urban Agriculture in India
Events! International Permaculture Day, Dr. Rafter Sass Ferguson on Permaculture, Santa Barbara City College Annual Plant Sale, Fairview Farm - Farm to Table Dinner, Farm Camp!
Dear Pilgrim Terrace Gardeners, Garden Friends,
It's great to see spring planting bringing so many of you back after a winter break! Things are popping in the garden, first tomatoes are on, flowers galore are blooming, stunning greens are growing!
A May welcome to new gardener Marlee in Plot 29! And Tamara Teitelbaum is your new neighbor in Plot 25! You will be seeing some very welcome changes there ~
We're looking a lot better thanks to several gardeners Louie Cassano, Chris & Holly Morissette, and Joe Rubin, for clearing weeds from our common areas! And thanks to many of you for clearing your plots and surrounding pathways. We want to look good in the community we are a part of. There are passersby all day, people who use the bus stop, Pilgrim Terrace residents and caregivers, and other workers that enjoy the beauty of our garden. For many it starts their day! You make a difference.
Special HUGE thanks to Jacob & Elizabeth Miller, and Erik Thurman of Gray Avenue Farm for their volunteer work clearing the perimeter of our garden! Please let them know your appreciation when you see them about our garden helping as they can!
WATER! Please water before 10:30 AM and after 4 PM. Use a watering sprinkler head or wand with a shutoff valve. Berms need to go to the dripline of your plant so tiny subsurface feeder roots can fully supply your plant with water and nutrients it needs.
Mother's Day is May 8! Here are some wonderful ideas for green and loving gifts! Click here
There are a lot of April images! It was a beautiful month, new plants, flowers, more!
If you or a friend would enjoy gardening at a community garden, please join us! MAY is perfect time to plant tasty summer heat lovers and cantaloupe! A 10 X 20 spot is only $65/year! YES! Go directly to the Westside Community Center, weekdays 10 to 4, to sign up. That's at 423 W Victoria St, Santa Barbara. We will be delighted to meet you, share friendship, the great outdoors, and garden craft!
Across-the-Plot Gardening Tips
MAY is for More!
Love your Mother! Plant bird & bee food! Capture water! Grow organic!
MAY/June Planting Timing
Plant as you would in April, but in addition, now is perfect time for cantaloupes!
Keep a steady table supply coming by planting second and third rounds now, seeds or transplants or both! Add different varieties with different maturity dates for a steady supply, a palate pleasing assortment! Some people just remember when they planted what. Others make an ID plant tag with the plant date and name on it and the # of days to maturity. A quick glance will tell you if that set of plants is ready for another round to be planted. Or, just jot it in your calendar so you be sure to plant another round in 6 to 8 weeks.
If seeds and tending seedlings aren't for you, transplants are fine! Eggplant, limas, all melons, peppers, pumpkins and squash! Many wait until even June, to plant tomatoes to avoid fungal problems, but if your garden is fungus free, plant away! Ideally you would wait until the soil has warmed to 70°F before sowing squash and melon seeds, but if you can't wait, and who can?, get nursery transplants and pop them in the ground! Some gardeners do wait until JUNE
to plant southern heat lover okra
. Choose faster maturing varieties for coastal SoCal. If YOU anticipate a HOT summer, plant a tad earlier, but be prepared to deal with it if summer is overcast as often is the case after all.
Long beans are spectacular and love heat.
Late May, though usually in June
is best to start them. They grow quickly from seed. They will last longer than other beans, hitting their stride toward the end of summer. Certain varieties of them don't get mildew either! Their unique flavor keeps your table interesting.
Right now, in addition to the plants listed above, sow and/or transplant
more asparagus, beets, carrots, celery, chard, corn, herbs, kale, kohlrabi, leeks, heat-tolerant leaf lettuce, parsley, peanuts, white potatoes repel squash bugs, radishes (with cukes to repel cuke beetles, and with eggplant, potatoes and arugula to repel flea beetles), and spinach.
Time for heat-resistant, bolt-resistant lettuces of all kinds! Sierra, Nevada, Jericho, Black Seeded Simpson
are some. Tips for super Successful Transplanting!
See last month's chat on Tomato and Cucumber specifics
, especially if your soil has Fusarium and Verticillium wilts as ours does at Pilgrim Terrace Community Garden. Mainly, keep those babies' leaves off the ground!
Remove lower leaves, get them UP a cage or trellis and lay down a loose 1" deep straw mulch blanket. Too much straw keeps the soil moist, which is good for some plants, not for others. Under maters and cukes, we want some air circulation and a bit of soil drying. The main purpose of mulch is to keep your plant's leaves from being water splashed or in contact with soil, the main way they get fungi/blight diseases.
With our warming temp trends, get bolt resistant/slow bolt varieties, and especially heat and drought tolerant varieties.
is more than just saying Howdy! Certain combos enhance growth, others repel pests, some invite beneficial insects!
- Basil is great with tomatoes, and a pack of culinary dandelions! It is thought to repel white flies, mosquitoes, tomato hornworms, aphids, houseflies, and asparagus beetles. Smells great and tastes great!
- Beans, Cukes, Dill, Radish Combo! Cukes and Beans are great on the trellis, one high, one low. Dill goes with your pickling cukes. Radishes deter Cucumber beetles.
- White potatoes with Zucchini to repel squash bugs.
- Radish with eggplant, cukes & zukes as trap plants for flea beetles and to repel cucumber beetles.
- Carrots love being with cilantro and chamomile!
Put in 'licious fast growers
like lettuce, beets, turnips, arugula, in space being held for subsequent plantings. To use your space super productively, put these veggies on the sunny sides under any large plants. If needed, remove lower leaves that would shade out the 'littles.' If you anticipate unusually hot summer weather, grow the littles on the east side of larger plants to protect them from the afternoon sun.
Put in borders of slow but low growers
like carrots, mini cabbages, in more permanent placements, like on what will become the morning side of taller backdrop plants like peppers and eggplant.
This year my summer strategy is to plant tall in the West
to filter sunlight, give shorter plants respite from the hot afternoon sun, keep them a bit cooler, keep the soil a bit cooler, more moist. Last summer, record HOT, our crops produced so much, they were plum done in July. Fall planting wasn't successful until the end of October. Hopefully my new strategy will give a longer growing period this year.
Natural Disease & Pest Prevention!
- Garlic, bulb onions, and shallots naturally begin to dry this month. When the foliage begins to dry it's time to stop irrigating. Dry outer layers needed for long storage will form on the bulbs. When about half of the foliage slumps to the ground, bend the rest to initiate this maturing. The bulbs will be ready for harvest when the foliage is thoroughly dry and crisp.
- In these drought times, water before 10:30 AM if at all possible. The earlier the better. Water at the base of your plant to the dripline. If your plants are dusty, you are near a road or there has been a wind, give them a bath. Dusty plants are habitat for White Flies. Keep a lookout, and hose away ants. Use a water device with a shut off valve.
- Water beans, cukes, lettuces and short rooted varieties of strawberries more frequently. They are all workhorses producing fast and repeatedly, cukes making a watery fruit even. Lettuces need to put on growth fast to stay sweet.
- Please always be building compost and adding it, especially near short rooted plants and plants that like being moist. Compost increases your soil's water holding capacity.
- Soil feeding organic MULCH feeds your soil, keeps your soil cooler, moister, less water needed and prevents light germinating seeds from starting - less weeds!
- Pat on Mycorrhiza fungi right on the roots of all your transplants except Brassicas, when you put them in the ground. It increases uptake of nutrients, water, and phosphorus that helps roots and flowers grow and develop. Ask for it bulk at Island Seed & Feed in Goleta.
- If you garden in a windy area, put up porous windbreaks to slow soil drying, and you will have less dusty conditions that bring White Flies.
Choosing excellent and appropriate plant varieties, using companion plants in wise combinations, making super soil, regularly applying prevention formulas more details and all the recipes
, sidedressing and keeping up on maintenance are the things that keep your plants in top form! They will be less likely to have diseases, but pests adore tasty healthy plants just like we do, as well as them cleaning up plants that are weak or on their way out. See more in the April Newsletter
The usual May culprits!
- Cucumber Beetles get in cucumber, squash and melon blossoms. The are yellow greenish with black stripes or dots about the size and shape of a Ladybug. They are cute but oh so awful. They carry bacterial diseases and viruses from plant to plant, such as bacterial wilt and mosaic virus, deadly to cukes. Radish repels them, is a champion plant, a hero of the garden! Plant enough for you to eat, let others just grow, be there permanently or at least until the beetles are done, gone. IPM data
- Flea Beetles look like large black fleas and do hop mightily! They seem harmless enough, make tiny little holes in the leaves of eggplant, potatoes, arugula. But, those tiny holes add up. As the beetles suck out the juice of your plant they disrupt your plant's flow of nutrients, open the leaves to disease, your plant is in a constant state of recovery, there is little production. Your plant looks dryish, lacks vitality. The trap plant for them, one that they like best, is radish! Thank goodness radish grow fast! Better yet, plant it ASAP when you put seeds and transplants in. IPM notes
- Squash Bugs like your Zucchini and other squash, cucumber and melons. Plant white potatoes amongst them to repel the bugs. You will get two crops instead of just one! IPM info
- Whiteflies do the honeydew thing like aphids, leaving a nasty sticky black sooty mold over your plant's leaves. The honeydew attracts ants, which interfere with the activities of Whitefly natural enemies. They are hard to get rid of, so keep a close watch on the undersides of leaves, especially if you see little white insects flying away when your plant is disturbed. Whiteflies develop rapidly in warm weather, in many parts of California, they breed all year. Prevent dusty conditions. Keep ants out of your plants. Hose them away immediately. See more
Plant Bee Food, Herbs and Flowers!
Sow or transplant basil, borage, chervil, chamomile, chives, cilantro, comfrey, dill, fennel, lavender, marjoram, mint, oregano, rosemary, sage, savory, tarragon, and thyme. Be mindful where you plant them... Mediterranean herbs from southern France, like lavender, marjoram, rosemary, sage, savory, and thyme, do well in hot summer sun
and poor but well-drained soil with minimal fertilizer. On the other hand, basil, chives, coriander (cilantro), and parsley thrive in richer soil with more frequent watering. Wise planting puts chives where you need to repel Bagrada Bugs, by your broccoli, kale, but away from peas if you are still growing some. Cilantro, a carrot family workhorse, discourages harmful insects such as aphids, potato beetles and spider mites, attracts beneficial insects when in bloom. Dill is a natural right next to the cucumbers since you will use the dill if you make pickles. They mature about the same time. Let some of your arugula, carrots, lettuces, cilantro bloom! Bees, and insect eating birds and beneficial insects
love them and you will get some seeds - some for the birds, some for you, some to swap! Grow beauty - cosmos, marigolds, white
sweet alyssum - all benefit your garden in their own way!
The first gatherings of the garden in May
of salads, radishes and herbs made me feel like a mother about her baby - how could anything so beautiful be mine. And this emotion of wonder filled me for each vegetable as it was gathered every year. There is nothing that is comparable to it, as satisfactory or as thrilling, as gathering the vegetables one has grown.
- Alice B. Toklas
See the complete April
Green Bean Connection for more great veggie gardening tips!
The Green Bean Connection started as correspondence for the Santa Barbara CA USA Pilgrim Terrace Community Garden. We are very coastal, during late spring/summer in a fog belt/marine layer area most years, locally referred to as the May grays, June glooms and August fogusts. Keep that in mind compared to the microclimate niche where your veggie garden is. Bless you for being such a wonderful Earth Steward!
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The Magic of Melons ~ Cantaloupe, Honeydew
Melons are total beauty queens!
Their outsides are marvelous, no two alike! You can grow minis to monsters! The insides are beautiful colors! If you couldn't see in color, their tastes would make up for it! Textures are plentiful! Some of them slither, others crunch! Warm and drizzly down your chin at the garden, ice cold on a hot day! Fruit salsa! You can cut them in a thousand ways, from cubes to balls, slices, astonishing intricate veggie art! They can be eaten with your fingers, put in smoothies, as part of creamy ambrosia. Sprinkle with spices, toss with mint. Add coconut or walnuts!
Besides all these delightful features, Melons are good for you!
CANTALOUPE (American) – 100% of Vitamin A, and 24% of Vitamin C
HONEYDEW – 53% of Vitamin C
Melons, like pumpkins, need heat! Melons are native to Africa, and the trick to getting the best-quality fruit in cooler climates is to duplicate the continent's hot sun and sandy soil as best you can. Light, fluffy soils warm faster than do clay ones, and melons love loose, well-drained dirt! Amend with compost or leaf mold. Ideally, you would wait to sow seed until the soil has warmed to 70°F before planting squash and melons, but SoCal hits 60+ degree soil in April and you can plant transplants successfully then! Start seedlings indoors to get the soonest start, but don't start the seedlings too soon! They grow quickly!
You in cooler coastal areas really need the heat. Naked unmulched soil heated by hot sun does the job!
Put your melons in an area where they are sheltered or there is a windbreak so they get good and hot! Remember the tricks about windbreaks. A porous windbreak works best.
Use clear or black plastic to heat up the ground. They absorb heat, warm the soil early, conserve moisture, control weeds, keep some pests and diseases away, and make harvesting a whole lot easier and cleaner. Or, use black landscape cloth instead of black plastic! The cloth allows the soil to breathe and water to pass through. Combine that with spun polyester row covers over transplants to give them a fast start. They increase the temperature by 5 to 8 degrees, and conserve moisture. Spun polyester is also handy because you can water straight through it. Or you can use a clear plastic film over seeds or young plants to generate more heat, and late melons can be ripened under plastic, too. Row covers must be removed when plants start to bloom so pollinating insects can reach the flowers.
If you choose the black plastic, lay it over the future melon garden in late winter to start warming the soil. Weigh down the edges so it doesn't take flight. When you are ready to plant, make five-inch, x-line cuts at least four feet apart on 6 to 8 foot centers depending on the size of the melon you are growing - if you are growing several plants in rows. If you commingle edibles and ornamentals, allow at least three feet in all directions around the cut-plastic x. Pull the plastic back and create a hill of soil (amended with lots of organic matter).
Green plastic film mulch For your consideration, green mulch is to melons, cucumbers, peppers, pumpkins and squash what red is to tomatoes. According to reports of research trials in the Northeast and Oregon, cooler areas, it stimulates earlier and heavier yields of fruits. One person reported the green film was very thin. As a deterrent to weeds, it didn't come close to black plastic. And at the end of the season it wasn't reusable, so they had to discard it. Maybe things have changed since then or it comes in different weights.
If you have super good heat, keep your melons off the ground with super thick mulch and even then, put them up on sturdy upside down containers. You want them out of the munching bug and soil diseases zone. They will color up more evenly, consistently, and you can save space, if grown on trellises, making little slings to hold the fruits up. But if your area doesn't get super hot, on the ground is better than up on a cooling wind exposed trellis.
If you mulch, put a stake where the center of the planting basin is so when you water, the water goes where the central roots are. Save water by not watering the rest of the area that doesn't need it and that would cool the ground. Make your basin large enough that tiny lateral feeder roots get water too. Melons like to be kept moist.
In cooler coastal areas consider growing mini melons that don't take as long to mature, or early melons, container varieties, that mature in 85 days or less. Consider growing spicy sweet Green Nutmeg, which has been around more than 150 years. Jenny Lind is another green-fleshed cantaloupe that weighs about a pound, 70 days. Early varieties have compact foliage. Vines and the distance between leaves (nodes) are shorter than larger, long-season melons. They flower early and have smaller fruits.
Heat and drought tolerant varieties per Southern Exposure Seed Exchange are:
Melons: Top Mark, Sweet Passion, and Kansas all have extra disease and/or pest tolerances. Edisto 47 is particularly recommended for hot, humid summers where fungal disease is an issue. Missouri Gold produces well through droughty conditions. [If you live in SoCal coastal foothills, plant away. If you are in the cooler beach areas, if you think we will have a HOT summer, take a chance, plant if you have room! It's recommended to wait until May to plant cantaloupe.]
Watermelon: Crimson Sweet and Strawberry watermelon are good choices where heat and humidity make fungal diseases a problem.
A clever strategy for instant succession planting, if you have space, is to plant melons that mature at different times. Growing small fast maturing melons AND late large melons = 2 harvests!
Plant three to five seeds two inches apart and about one inch deep. Keep them moist and watch them grow! Once the vines have two sets of true leaves, thin out the smaller or weaker vines, leaving the two strongest to grow on.
Male flowers come first so they can pollinate the females when they arrive! Not to worry if you don't get fruit set at first.
Water! You are going to see a lot of recommendations to plant on mounds. Here in California, and other places, we are in drought conditions so I am recommending to plant in basins like the Zuni desert waffle gardens techniques. All the water goes to your plant, less is lost to evaporative wind across a mound top, less water is needed. If in a cooler coastal area, your plant is sheltered from cooling wind, produces more in the heat.
Melons need plenty of water to support quick vine growth in early summer! The rule of thumb is a minimum of 1-inch of water a week, 2 inches is likely better. If you use plastic mulch, it will retain moisture so check the soil under the plastic to see when watering is really required. Once the first fruit ripens, stop all watering. Too much water at ripening time dilutes the fruit’s sugars and ruins the sweet flavor. The melons don’t need the water because they develop a deep root system soon after they start to flower.
Soil Slightly acid light, sandy loam with a pH between 6.0 and 6.5 is preferred. You might guess melons are very heavy feeders, they are making a lot of plant and a large fruit! Before planting, add in a little extra compost, and leaf mold, some well rotted manure, cow manure if you can get it.
Sidedressing Melons are a lot of plant and hungry! Fertilize every two to three weeks, using an all-purpose 5-5-5 fertilizer. In the root zone, put some spade fork holes around your plant. Add several inches of compost to root areas monthly. Water it in and it's like giving your plant compost tea as the water and compost drizzle down in the holes! Especially sidedress melons when blooming starts and every 6 weeks after.
- Fungus diseases, include Alternaria leaf spot, powdery mildew, anthracnose, and downy mildew.
- Water melons in the morning, ideally at soil level, so leaves dry before evening, preventing fungal diseases.
- Apply the Mildew mix! As soon as your little plants are up about 3" or you put transplants in the ground, mix a heaping tablespoon of Baking Soda, 1/4 cup non-fat powdered milk, 1 regular aspirin, 1 teaspoon liquid dish soap in a watering can. Apply foliarly, both under and on top of leaves. The main ingredient is the bicarbonate of soda! It makes the leaf surface alkaline and this inhibits the germination of fungal spores. Baking soda prevents and reduces Powdery Mildew, and many other diseases on veggies, roses, and other plants! It kills PM within minutes. It can be used on roses every 3 to 4 days, but do your veggie plants every 5 to 10 days, or after significant rains, as the plant grows, because these new plant tissues are not yet protected yet by your fungicide. See more details!
- To prevent powdery mildew, spray the leaves with wettable sulphur during late summer when the nights begin to cool down.
- At the first sign of disease, remove infected parts; remove and discard the mulch around the plant and replace it with fresh, clean mulch.
Pests Spun polyester row covers are excellent for controlling cucumber beetles and vine borers, which are the worst melon pests. Remember, row covers must be removed when plants start to bloom so pollinating insects can reach the flowers. Once the row covers are removed, sprinkle diatomaceous earth on the leaves to protect the plants from cucumber beetles. Plant Radish with eggplant, cukes & zukes, and melons to repel wilt-carrying striped cucumber beetles.
Maturity, When and How to Harvest
On very hot days melons can over ripen on the vine, giving them a waterlogged appearance. Most summer melons are fragrant when ripe. Sniff the skin; if you smell the flavor of the melon (the senses of smell and taste are interrelated), it is ripe for the picking. Another indicator for ripeness is when the stem separates (slips) easily where the vine attaches to the fruit. Cantaloupes are mature when the rind changes from green to tan-yellow between the veins.
Honeydew, crenshaw, and other winter melons are ready to harvest when they turn completely white or yellow, and the blossom end is slightly soft to touch. Since they do not slip, cut the melons from the vine. They will continue to ripen for several days at room temperature once they are picked.
The sweetest and most flavorful melons are those picked ripe from the vine and eaten right away. They may not be icy cold, but the fresh flavor and perfume more than make up for the temperature difference. Go ahead, open a melon and eat it right in the garden—without utensils—and let the sweet nectar run down your chin. That’s the true taste of summer!
Poor Flavor? It may be the weather: cloudy during ripening, too hot, too much or too little water, it rained a lot before harvest, or a combination of factors.
Saving Seeds is easy! When you save and store seeds, you help to continue the genetic line of plant varieties, leading to greater biodiversity in garden plants and preventing extinction of different varieties. A word to the wise! Like other cucurbits, melons easily crossbreed, so allow plenty of space between different types or cultivars. To be completely safe from any accidental cross-pollination, keep them away from other family members including cucumbers, squash, and pumpkins.
- Pick melons for seed saving when the tendril nearest the melon is completely dried, then store the harvested melon intact for another 3 weeks before removing and cleaning the seeds. Scoop out the seeds, put them into a wire mesh sieve, then with running water over the seeds rub them gently against the mesh, using it to loosen and remove the stringy fibers. The final test: Healthy seeds will sink to the bottom of a bowl of water, while dead seeds and most of the pulp will float. Get your seeds as clean as possible to keep them from sticking to whatever surface you dry them on.
- Drain them in a strainer. Pat the bottom of the strainer with a cloth towel to pull extra water from the seeds after they have drained. Spread them on a piece of glass or a shiny ceramic plate to dry (they will stick to paper, even waxed paper). Place the glass or ceramic plate in a cool, dry shady spot for several days. After the seeds are dry, they can be carefully removed from the glass or plate and final-dried before being stored in jars.
- Your seeds will keep for up to 5 years if stored in a cool dry place, however, the shorter the storage time, the better. Date and Name your seed jar. Dry seeds well to avoid mildew. Fluctuation in temperature or moisture levels of stored seeds lowers their longevity significantly. Prevent insect infestations by adding diatomaceous earth, it's non toxic, to the stored seeds in their jars. Add a few pinches to the seeds in a bowl and gently stir to thoroughly cover each seed.
All melons are flavorful enough on their own, yet you can enhance them with a sprinkle of ginger or salt. A squirt of lemon or lime juice will bring out the melon’s sweetness.
A popular treat offered by Los Angeles push cart vendors is fresh fruit sprinkled with salt, chili powder and a squeeze of fresh lime juice! it makes a quick, healthy snack or a vibrant side for a barbecue!
Mexican Fruit Salad with Chili Powder
Choose 1, 2, 3 or more fruits and/or vegetables—here are some that work well:
- cantaloupe or other melon
- cucumber or fresh pickles
salt, to taste or not at all! If you use salt, assemble your salad at the last minute—the salt begins leeching juice from the fruit right away.
May your life be sweet and spicy!
About Pulse Crops!
2016 International Permaculture Day is using this phrase: feed soil and people with pulses!
What are Pulses and what do they do?!
Pulse crops Pulse:
from the Latin puls meaning thick soup or potage, pulses are the edible seeds of plants in the legume family. Technically, the term "pulse" is reserved for crops harvested solely for DRY SEED.That would be DRIED peas, edible beans, lentils and chickpeas/garbanzo. Pulses are very high in protein and fibre, low in fat.
Importantly, pulses are nitrogen-fixing crops that improve the environmental sustainability of annual cropping systems. Many of you know that means they take Nitrogen from the air, 'fix' it in little nodules on their roots, in essence, gather their own Nitrogen, N being what plants need to live and grow. Planting these crops densely feeds your soil.
There's more!!! Pulse Canada has gathered the data!
- Pulse crops produce a number of different compounds that feed soil microbes and benefit soil health.
- Pulse crops have a significant impact on soil biology, increasing soil microbial activity even after the pulses are harvested.
- Pulses have also been shown to exude greater amounts and different types of amino acids than non-legumes and the plant residues left after harvesting pulse crops have a different biochemical composition (e.g. Carbon/Nitrogen ratio) than other crop residues.
- The ability of pulses to feed the soil different compounds has the effect of increasing the number and diversity of soil microbes.
Definitely crops grow better in soils that are more “alive” with a diverse array of soil organisms! These organisms break down and cycle nutrients more efficiently, feeding the crops as they grow, helping crops to access nutrients.
In addition, a large, diverse population of soil organisms ‘crowds out’ disease-causing bacteria and fungi, making for healthier plants. Growing pulses breaks disease, weed and insect cycles. But of course!
Growing pulse crops in ROTATION with other crops enables the soil environment to support these large, diverse populations of soil organisms. That's why we grow 'green manure' crops - bell beans (a small variety of fava), Austrian peas, vetch mixes - over winter to feed upcoming summer crops. When you remove plantings of peas or beans, cut them off at ground level rather than pull and remove those roots with the valuable nodules!
When & Where to Plant Other than for food, plant pulse soil feeding cover crops, green manure, when you want to take a break. Don't just let your land go, give it something to do while you are away. Let it feed and restore itself! It's so easy to do. Just wet the seed with an inoculant & fling the seed about! Keep the seedlings moist until they are up a bit, then all you have to do is water once a week or so, the plants will do the rest. If your climate is warm enough, plant one area each winter. Let it rest from other soil using crops. Plant where you will grow heavy feeders like tomatoes the following summer.
Pulses provide a number of nutritional benefits that positively impact human health! Pulse is gluten-free, can reduce “bad” cholesterol, has a low glycemic index, have virtually no fat! See more!
Pulses taste great. Rich in fibre and protein, they also have high levels of minerals such as iron, zinc, and phosphorous as well as folate and other B-vitamins. High in protein, they reduce the environmental footprint of our grocery carts. Put it all together? Healthy people and a healthy planet.
Pulses come in a variety of shapes, sizes and colours and can be consumed in many forms including whole or split, ground into flours or separated into fractions such as protein, fibre and starch. That could be delicious red bean salsa, chiles, split pea soup, plain or spiced hummus, falafel balls! Dairy free pulse cakes and cheesecakes, ice cream!
Pulses do not include fresh beans or peas. Although they are related to pulses because they are also edible seeds of podded plants, soybeans and peanuts differ because they have a much higher fat content, whereas pulses contain virtually no fat.
There are delish recipes online, and Pulse recipe books - main dishes, desserts and baked goods! Put more of these good foods in your life!
Other Community Gardens!
Urban Agriculture in India
In Nairobi's Kibera slum, urban agriculture is thriving. Slums across India are following suit. (Urban Africa)
This may not look very wonderful to you, but it is! Any abandoned space, even an old dump, a slum area, can be transformed and feed very hungry people. In many places there are no stores, no fresh food. But with seeds, it is doable, very doable! The soil can be worked with our hands, no shovel needed. Sticks, stones, anything can be used to till soil. There are so many simple and clever ways we can use what we have around us to rehabilitate the land. All over the world, peasants, people in remote climate hostile areas have always raised super organic food and some live to amazing ages.
In 2010, nearly 830 million people around the world lived in slums, up from 777 million in the year 2000,according to the United Nations. The New York Times describes Dharavi, Asia’s largest slum, as a “cliché of Indian misery,” with approximately 1 million slum dwellers living on 8 percent of the land in the western city of Mumbai. India is home to an estimated 93 million slum dwellers. Experts estimate that 36 percent of Mumbai's slum children are malnourished.
Although Dharavi lacks sufficient infrastructure to provide sewerage, water, electricity, or housing for residents, this dense community in the heart of India’s financial capital has a thriving informal economy with an annual economic output of up to US$1 billion.
One important way to mitigate hunger in Indian cities is by enabling the urban poor to grow their own food on local land. Urban farming is a growing trend within middle-class Indian communities, some of whom practice rooftop gardening and community farming. Although densely populated slums pose challenges for urban agriculture, non-developed land can sometimes be converted into open space for gardening. Such was the case with a former dump site in Mumbai’s Ambedkar Nagar slum, that is now a community garden.
In the city of Cuttack, slum dwellers rely on organic farming to grow the vegetables needed to meet their dietary requirements, and are even able to sell the surplus to local markets. Local fruit and vegetable production in and around urban Delhi allow poor communities to access cheap, healthy food, which would otherwise be too expensive.
Numerous organizations, including Solidarités International and the Norwegian Refugee Council, believe that urban agriculture—which is credited with producing 15 to 20 percent of the world’s food in 2011—can bring new life to deteriorating slums and serve as a driving force for community development.
Excerpts from Catherine Ward's post Urban Agriculture Helps Combat Hunger in India’s Slums
Reading this makes me feel so grateful for where I live and that we have organic Community Gardens!
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Upcoming Garden Events!
Walk or bike to events as possible! Heal the land, heal yourself.
This will be the 7th Intl Permaculture Day! Technically, this event is on the first Sunday in May. That's May Day, May 1 in 2016, but around the world it is celebrated as it can be, as speakers and locations are available. In Santa Barbara it will be May 6 when Dr Rafter Sass Ferguson comes to town! See below!
What are pulses?! See above!
So many people are celebrating! See more!
.....visit homes, gardens, farms, community gardens
… attend film screenings, workshops, permablitzes, festivals
… gather at convergences and join in much more....
And what is a permablitz?!
It is a bunch of people doing a garden makeover! Like an old fashioned barn raising, but it's a landscape or garden makeover!
Permaculture & the Climate Crisis: Science, Politics, & Practice
Friday, May 6, 2016
7:30 - 9 pm, FREE
SBCC Fe Bland Auditorium/BC Forum, West Campus
The revolution starts in your garden! This is a worthy event in the Santa Barbara area not to be missed! It is sponsored by the Environmental Horticulture Dept. & the SBCC Permaculture Design Course and our local permies, SB Permaculture Network - Wesley Roe, Margie Bushman. Wesley says 'Rafter Sass-Ferguson has some fresh new perspectives for those of us that have been in the permaculture scene for a while and for those who are new to it I couldn't imagine a better introduction!' BE a changemaker, learn how, meet other wonderful like minded activists! New beginnings on the Taurus New Moon!
Meet speaker Dr. Rafter Sass Ferguson of Liberation Ecology, University of Lisbon, Lisbon!
SBCC ANNUAL PLANT SALE!
THE NEXT DAY! SB City College Environmental Horticulture Dept. has their great annual plant sale May 7 from 9 am-1pm in the Lifescape Gardens on SBCC East campus (parking lot 1B). The Lifescape Garden is looking spectacular right now, worth a PREVIEW visit to get ideas for your garden.
~Santa Barbara Permaculture Network is happy to be a co-sponsor for this event.
Support our local farmers and educational center!
Leave a wild place, untouched, in your garden! It’s the place the faeries and elves, the little people can hang out. When you are down on your hands and knees, they will whisper what to do. All of a sudden an idea pops in your mind….
In the garden of thy heart, plant naught but the rose of love. – Baha’U’Uah
"Earth turns to Gold in the hands of the Wise" Rumi
Radish Sprouts looking at the Sky!